Are We Ready to Measure Skin Permeation of Modern Antiaging GHK–Cu Tripeptide Encapsulated in Liposomes?

Author(s)

Karolina Ogórek, Kinga Nowak, Emilia Wadych, Lena Ruzik, Andrei R. Timerbaev, Magdalena Matczuk

Abstract

Cosmetically active compounds (CACs), both of lipophilic and hydrophilic origin, have difficulty reaching the deeper layers of the skin, and this shortcoming significantly reduces their efficacy. One such CAC that occurs naturally in the human body and displays many beneficial properties (via reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening skin, improving its elasticity, etc.) is the glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine tripeptide complex of copper (GHK–Cu). GHK–Cu is a fairly hydrophilic compound with limited permeation through the lipophilic stratum corneum. On the other hand, liposomes capable of encapsulating GHK–Cu may improve its permeation potential. The present review discusses various issues related to obtaining insight into the permeation of CACs through the skin. Methods for studying the transport of CACs encapsulated by liposomes and free GHK–Cu across the skin barrier are summarized. An analysis of the literature data reveals that the transport of liposomes containing GHK–Cu received little attention. This research gap gives an impetus to the methodological developments for assessing the effect of liposomes on GHK–Cu transportation and trafficking.

Organisation(s)

Department of Inorganic Chemistry

External organisation(s)

Warsaw University of Technology

Journal

Molecules

Volume

30

ISSN

1420-3049

DOI

https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules30010136

Publication date

01-2025

Peer reviewed

Yes

Austrian Fields of Science 2012

301303 Medical biochemistry, 301207 Pharmaceutical chemistry

Keywords

ASJC Scopus subject areas

Analytical Chemistry, Chemistry (miscellaneous), Molecular Medicine, Pharmaceutical Science, Drug Discovery, Physical and Theoretical Chemistry, Organic Chemistry

Portal url

https://ucrisportal.univie.ac.at/en/publications/6c5713d8-79b4-4d58-bba5-71929632c469